In the News & On the Web: Black Models, R. Kelly, UBO MOvie

On the heels of Vogue's historic and therefore much talked about "Black Issue" that hits newsstands here next week, there is an article in today's NY Times (again) about the lack of Black models in major fashion magazines and runways. Written by Cathy Horn, "Conspicuous by Their Presence," focuses more on the upcoming issue and on Steven Meisel who photographed all the models including Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks, Jourdan Dunn and Sessilee Lopez. Some interesting quotes from the article:

O.K., so fashion ain’t deep. It looks into a mirror and sees ... itself. The irony in fashion is that it loves change but it can’t actually change anything. It can only reflect a change in the air. But what changes fashion? What would finally move American designers to include more black models on their runways? That 30 percent of the country is nonwhite? That black women spend $20 billion a year on clothes? That an African-American is the presumptive presidential nominee of the Democratic Party?

Over Ms. Sozzani’s initial objections, he also hired Toccara Jones, a full-figure model, who became known from “America’s Next Top Model.” “I wanted to say something about weight, and I’m never allowed to do that,” he said. “I met Toccara and thought, she’s beautiful. What’s the deal with her? She’s great and she’s sexy.”

Some people think it's agood idea and others don't. I personally think it's fantastic, but I am also aware of how some in our society like to make these grandiose public acts just for show, which don't have any roots in anything substantial or lasting. So my eyes are wide open.


So R. Kelly was acquitted of all charges. Surprised? Nope. I knew it. Anytime it takes that long to bring someone to trial there is a lack of seriousness in the midst. My comrade Joicelyn said it firsts three years ago, the judicial system and our communities at large do not care what happens to little Black girls. I followed up just a month ago when Kila (who is from Chicago) thought Mister Braid-My-Hair would be getting his cornrows done in prison. I told her then that those folks on the jury are probably blaming the girl in the video for being promiscuous and that further more we are not about to lock up the dude who gave us the 2-Step. Jalylah over at Vibe really sums it up nicely.

And lastly Miles Marshall Lewis hipped me to the making of a documentary about UBO (Urban Box Office). Dang near every Black artist/ writer/ "tastemaker" was scooped by UBO—the mega all encompassing, multimillion dollar website with aspirations to be all things for all Black folk. Well needless to say that ish never panned out cause well it would seem that the folks at UBO spent their millions on lavish parties (launch party on Ellis Island), crazy salaries, private jets, Gucci suits, Cuban cigars and Dom Perignon. So typical! Anyway this doc, being produced by the man behind the hugely popular gossip site Urban Expose, should be painfully hilarious. I was asked to freelance for UBO three weeks before they went out of business and am still feeling the affects of their greed and mismanagement today when investors are still crazy skeptical of the urban online arena and it's potential to be highly successful. Thanks UBO for that one! Check the trailer:

Out of Fashion: The Absence of Color

Last night's discussion led by former model and agency owner, Bethann Hardison was in many ways like a long overdue family reunion. There were photos to be taken, dirty laundry needed to be aired and points had to be made, but mostly it was time to strengthen 'the ties that bind.'

"One of the first steps toward change is by pricking," said Bethann in her opening remarks, her hand motioning as if pinching at some indiscriminate matter. "Tonight we are here to continue the discussion and begin the process for change." And so it was that so many folks, mostly from the fashion industry, gathered at the NY Public Library to talk about the ever decreasing numbers of Black models appearing on runways and in major editorial spreads. I walked in with Beverly Smith (formerly of Vibe), IMG model Quiana Grant and Harriette Cole from Ebony magazine and as we were led through what had to be a 15-minute labyrinth of twists, turns and ramps and two elevator rides, the excitement became that much more palpable. Although this was my first time meeting Beverly and Quiana, I felt an immediate sense of sisterhood, which living in NYC, is something quite rare. Our rapport was warm and humorous like it should be between homegirls. And even though Quiana was the only model in our mix, Bev, Harriette and I knew that we were there because the dilemma, that thing that needed to be pricked, affected us all.

The event was sold-out and it was standing room only. No surprise after the article in Sunday's NY Times and the hoopla Vivienne Westwood made in Sunday's London's Telegraph. After taking my seat and looking around I noticed so many familiar faces in the crowd including Iman, Tia Williams, Claude Grunitzky, and Barron Claiborne all sitting in the front row. Also in the house were: Beverly Smith, Yaya DaCosta, Vera Wang, Michaela angela Davis, Beverly Bond, Marc Baptiste, Memsor Kamara, and Jaunel Mckenzie and so many more whose names escape me right now.

The night got off to a rather fiery start when former model and current agent, David Ralph spoke about the kind of Black models that are usually booked. Using Liya Kebede (think Estee lauder campaign) he asserted that the reason she is booked more frequently than an Alek Wek is that her features are "smaller and finer" and therefore more accessable (read European) in character than African. The straw that broke the camel's back though or should I say got under Iman's skin, was when he said that he knows these women are thought of as white women "dipped in chocolate." Immediately shooting from the hip Iman blasted back, "I take offense when people say to me I look like a white woman dipped in chocolate. I am African and I look like an African!" She put him on blast and everyone knew what she felt like saying was "That's bullsh*t," but Sister Iman, as I referred to her later that night in my comments, is a lady. She spoke, no she challenged Mr. Ralph on these notions and for her five minutes on the mic she never relented. It was so dang refreshing to see her, in particular, show just how personal, hurtful, rude and repercussive this kind of thinking can be. Too often we sit with our legs crossed and talk politely, intellectually, about racism and the weight it bears on our professional and personal lives, but every now and then we need someone to shout and show just how pissed off we are. I really wish I'd had gotten video of her and some of the other conversationalists, which included designer Tracy Reese, casting agent James Scully and stylist Lori Goldstein.

After an extensive Q&A that touched on a number of topics from why Black models wear weaves to a suggestion that we no longer support (ie. buy) goods from labels like Prada that do not hire Black models (that idea was immediately shot down b/c on an international level there just isn't enough of us that Prada would even care never mind be affected by our ban), Bethann wrapped up the night's activities by speaking about designers not liking models anymore and not developing relationships with girls and the consequences of no longer having models with personalities and its visual effect on the runways in terms of overwhelming blandness and subdued racism.

Glamour Mess, Black Girls "Out of Fashion" & Trace Mag

So this Glamour mess is still a brewing just stinking up an already racist publishing industry (don't believe me find out how many Black models have graced the cover of Vogue-- more on this later). On this site they delve into the issue by featuring a post entitled How Does a Black Woman Feel About the Glamour Controversy? The writer, Dodai Stewart, says some things that got me nodding in agreement but then she said quite a few things that had me saying aloud 'Oh hell to the no!' Like she questions what qualifies as racism at least two or three times throughout the piece. Are we still unsure... even in 2007? She says:

I believe that plenty of well-intentioned people make ignorant, misinformed, undereducated statements all the time. Does that make them racists?

I say 'Yeah, damn skippy it does!' That's like the comment I read online the other night when someone had the audacity to say that hanging a noose on a tree where Black students hangout or on the door of a Black ivy league professor isn't the same as actually hanging someone from a noose. Oh so now we gotta wait until the bodies are dangling? Until we hear the n-word shouted? Until the strange fruit blows stinking in the wind?!? Please people work with me. What she said is racist and yes that makes her racist. And no that doesn't mean I think she has a white hooded robe hanging in her closet next to her Nicole Miller sundress. There are many faces and degrees of racism. But it's all connected and it all stems from and is racism.

She then asks:

Would Beyoncé be the star she is now if her skin were darker, like her Destiny's Child cohorts?

Um yeah she would be! Bey is just way more talented (and driven) and no one can deny that. If Michelle were the lightest girl in the group she would NOT have been the star. I'm not saying the music industry is free of racism because we all know that's not true, but unlike the fashion and movie industries, there seems to be a bit more latitude. Look at Jill Scott, Erykah Badu, Meshell Ndegeocello & Lauryn Hill. Sometimes nappy headed, dark skin sisters do make it through. And I'm sure this is largely because music unlike fashion and film is more of a visceral experience than visual. Even in the face of MTV it still matters more what you sound like than what you look like. Just ask Cassie or Britney! You will be hard press to find the same percentage of sisters like this in Hollywood and even more so in Fashion and I'm talking high-fashion not the Ebony Fashion Shows or Upscale magazine covers. I'm talking Gucci & Prada shows, Vogue covers, et. al. And because so many Black women purchase and rock Gucci and Prada that situation is that much more complicated. Even the usually comedic Miss J from America's Next Top Model had to speak out on the lack of diversity.

On that note, Bethann Hardison is back on the case-- focusing attention on the growing trend of not booking Black models for major cover and advertorial shoots and for fashion weeks here in the States and also in Milan and Paris. She created the, currently dormant, Black Girls Coalition in 1988 and it really seems like there is a need for that organization now more than ever. She had a forum in September that was attended by what seemed like all the top Black girls in the biz including Naomi Campbell, Liya Kebede and Iman. She continues the conversation this Monday October 15th. Please come out and support this important cause. From the aforementioned controversy there couldn't be a more apt time.

And finally, on the upside of Blackness in the media, I finally, finally got my Black Girls Rule issue of Trace mag. I know I'm mad late with this one, but I have been eagerly awaiting what y'all know is my favorite issue of this mag and one of my favorites of any mag. It seems like I can only find the issue on 23rd or 14th streets, but thanks to Carol at Susan Blond she hooked me up. And the issue was definitely worth waiting for cause Iman guest edits this time ‘round. The Unsung feature about all these cool sisters doing great community work should have been much bigger. I wanted to know more about these extraordinary women. The bi-racial story was well done and the Black models featured were on point (although I felt like I was looking at the same 3 wigs over the course of a 31-page spread. It would have been nice to see more variety-- hair that had some texture would have been hot and ideal right about now). Anyway if you can find it and check it out.